The ones I’m looking at have names like “Canon EOS 100D”, but the numbers vary. There’s 100D, 250D, 350D, 400D, 500D, 1000D etc… I’m just wondering what they mean. And which one is the best?
5 Answers
-
4 numbers is for the budget line, only the 1000D.
3 numbers indicates an amateur model. The higher the number, the more recent. They started with 300D and they’re now up to 550D.
2 numbers for advanced amateur models. Again, the higher the number, the more recent. They started with 10D and they’re now up to 60D. (They also threw a D60 into the mix.)
1 number for the (semi) pro line. The 7D, 5D series, and at the top of the heap the 1D series.
-
Canon Camera Names
-
That’s correct, it’s just a model number. It’s an interesting question though since one would think that the higher the model number the later the model. But, with Canon that’s not true. I own two Canon dslr cameras, the 1000D (Rebel XS). I’ve had it for about 18-months. My second one is the 500D (eos t1i) which was first introduced about 6-months ago – go figure.
Also Canon decided long ago to call the exact same camera by different names in different countries. Kiss in Japan, the XS (for example here in the US) and the 1000D in Europe – again go figure. Exactly the same camera, three different names, that I know of.
I don’t understand their numbering system either but hey, they didn’t ask me and besides, it’s their company… tee… hee.
-
Congratulations on your upcoming purchase of a dSLR. Here’s what I know. 1st) Don’t worry about all the crazy terminology. Pretty much every company will have different terms about their gizmo. For example, Canon’s lens stabilization is termed (IS), Nikon is VR, Sony is “SteadyShot.” 2nd) The lenses you “need” are determined by what photography you do. It’s just like using a manual SLR in that aspect. Furthermore, there are different qualities of lenses. Canon’s top-of-the-line lenses are called “L” lenses. Most people start with a zoom lens that covers the “normal” range: i.e. has a focal length that can change, but covers 50mm. 3rd) I recommend, like most photographers, to purchase the body only and forgo the “kit lens.” Spend the money you save to purchase better glass. The kit lens designed to be cheap to manufacture and you just won’t get the quality that your dSLR can produce. Get the best glass you can afford. 4th) All dSLR cameras will allow you to work in full manual mode. They all offer various forms of automatic modes. When you finally settle on a camera, read the manual. Play with the camera, read the manual, until you know what it is and what it can do. 5th) Freedom from the wet darkroom is why I love digital photography. Expect to spend just as much time, if not more, sitting in front of your computer editing photographs. The tendency is to take more with a digital SLR, so there is more to slog through. Get yourself a good photo editor/cataloger to make life easier. I recommend Adobe Lightroom or Apple Aperture (both are platform and camera independent). To this end, shoot in camera RAW — sometimes called the digital negative. Shooting in RAW is the equivalent to shooting a film negative. Shooting in JPEG (a lossy compression format) is like shooting a Polaroid. Obviously the former is more desirable for most applications. 5th) I recommend buying a digital SLR body from Canon, Nikon, or Sony without the kit lens, then buying the most expensive glass you can afford. Photography is expensive, buying a new camera is no exception. Your lens may be able to be purchased at a slight discount used, and perhaps the body, too, but a digital body goes out-of-date quicker (due to technology advances) than a film camera. Good luck, I hope your photography expeditions go well! Read everything you can online about taking photographs in digital to help ease your transition from film. It’s similar, but there are also great differences.
-
Yea is the model like a BMW 320
The 3 is the series the 20 is the litre
I have the 450d and I love it but I am saving for the 7d as it meets my requirements